This was one of the most fascinating places we saw on North Island. I remember as we got within 100km of
Rotorua, (also known as "Sulfur City,") I started to notice steam vents in the countryside. It turns out this area
of New Zealand is a highly-active geothermal region. Shortly after seeing the first vents we passed a geothermal
power plant.
This is the ancestral home of the Maori people, the indigenous natives of the region, who once occupied not only all
of New Zealand, but many of the surrounding islands as well. As is common where the British landed historically, the
Maori were forced to fight wars to protect their territorial rights. As is also common, they were out-manned and
often out-gunned, but the Maori were not a pacifistic people. They were a warrior race that vigorously defended
their homeland.
As we know from Australian history, the British committed many acts of brutality against the native people they came
to conquer, and there is a bitter legacy between the Maori people and the white settlers who eventually became native
New Zealanders.
But unlike the American settlers, there were treaties signed, and much of their ancestral land was returned to them.
It's a testament to both sides that many of the places in NZ were eventually restored to their original place names,
(as opposed to keeping the British names for places.) The Maori have survived, and even thrived, through eco-tourism
and the mining of jade and other minerals. The wood carvings seen all over Rotorua are an example of Maori culture
that remains strong and vibrant to this day.
One important note about this place: As fascinating and beautiful as this place was I would not wish to live there.
It's called "Sulfur City" because it reeks of that mineral smell often, (depending on which direction the wind is
blowing.) I'm sure there are places further out that don't have this problem, but one would have to spend significant
time in the area to discover such a place. The city made us nauseous at times, but the visit was enjoyable. I'd
settle for living in Auckland and visiting.
